King Alfred Way
The Route
The 350km loop of the King Alfred Way was developed by Cycling UK in 2020 and aimed to take riders on an off-road gravel adventure, taking in all the historic sights of the Wessex region. It connects segments of the South Downs Way, Ridgeway and Thames Path to existing bridleways, byways, and quiet country lanes. The planning for this route would have been over many years leading to its realise in 2020, and no doubt the pandemic helped boost its popularity with international travel heavily restricted.
I booked out a long weekend in May to check it out, see some new areas in the south of England, and have some fun on my Marin Nicasio+.
I opted to ride the route in 3 days starting in Winchester. As a loop it allows you to join wherever you like, which is super helpful in attracting more people and making it easier to plan.
My bike of choice for the trip was my Marin Nicasio+. I prepped for the ride by changing the stock tyres and going for instead the slightly knobbly WTB Resolute 42mm. I bought a new Planet X 9 litre Podsac Saddle bag and for all the other kit required I already had it at home.
I downloaded the GPX route from the Cycling UK website, split it into 3 days, and loaded it from Komoot onto my Wahoo ELEMNT.
The start point with the King Alfred statue
Some less than usual hazards on the way
Day 1
I left Winchester heading towards Amesbury for lunch. It didn’t take long before I was off the tarmac and onto some pretty fun descending single track – which is a nice wake up if any kit isn’t strapped down correctly. I ended up meandering through some lovely tracks interspersed with quaint English villages for the first 20kms. It was truly divine and a great introduction.
As I approached Amesbury there were some tasty climbs with a few tree roots to navigate. Obviously on the other side of these climbs it led to some exciting downhill speed. I stupidly got a little carried away on one of the downhills and thought that I was on my mountain bike and that I wasn’t carrying any kit. What resulted when I hit a large rock with my front tyre at the end of a fast downhill was the first puncture of the trip after 30 km. This was frustrating so early on, but these things happen and I just had to get on with repairing it. I wasn’t running tubeless for a number of reasons.
Firstly, the wheels I had were not compatible, and secondly when speaking with the staff at my local bike shop they weren’t overly confident or complimentary of converting to tubeless. I did look into this before I left.When I repaired the puncture I pumped up to slightly harder than what I had them at, and overall it gave me a much more confident ride without sacrificing on traction or comfort.The tracks towards Amesbury got pretty narrow and overgrown in places.
If you weren’t wrestling the nettles you are being tested with some gnarly short technical descents, it really is good stuff. I had a feed and a rest at Amesbury as they have a great selection of pubs and cafes to pick from. Even though it’s only about 45km to Amesbury it’s a tough ride as there is a fair amount of up and down, and technically not the easiest. The route from Amesbury headed to the Salisbury Plains. The tracks now are wider and the views just superb. Navigation at this point is easier as the turns are less frequent, the only time I missed them was when I was distracted by the scenery or talking with fellow cyclists I had randomly met up with.One thing that was slightly frustrating, but I can understand why they planned it like this, is that the route doesn’t go directly next to Stonehenge.
The official route is on road that runs quite a way from it. On the lead up you can see the stones in the valley but you don’t get up close to it. I presume this was to avoid riding next to loads of walkers and cars trying to get a glimpse. It didn’t bother me too much but if I was a tourist down in the region for a one off trip and I had to back track in order to see them up close I would be annoyed. Something to think about if it is important for you. Soon after the Salisbury Plain was one of the highlights of the day as I tracked along this epic ridge overlooking Wiltshire. A slow steady climb up and before you knew it you were rewarded with some amazing sights overlooking Devizes.In the later half of the day the frequency of pubs and cafes are a lot less, so you do need to think and plan ahead. I had a break in All Cannings and The Kings Arms. A very friendly local pub with a good ale selection on tap.
Leaving here there were two almighty climbs I had to deal with which late in the day and with an amber ale as fuel, it really tested things. These climbs then had some sketchy downhills which thanks to the overgrown grass you couldn’t see where you tyre was being placed, but knew it was precariously balanced on the top of a very deep rut either side ready to trip you up. My end point for the day was the village of Ogbourne St George with the hope that the pub The Inn with the Well was serving food, otherwise it was a begrudging cycle in the wrong direction to Marlborough. My prayers were answered, and the very friendly hosts really looked after me. I had a great meal with a few drinks and rested up before I cycled off to find a campsite.
Obviously, the route away from the pub was up a vertical road to join the Ridgeway, which was again tough going now as I had an American sized burger and fries sitting in my stomach. Thankfully I found a spot to wild camp very early on the Ridgeway. My bivi spot on the edge of a farmers field had a great sunset and it didn’t take long before I crashed out.
An absolutely amazing, hard, technical day with epic views. Final stat counts had me at 122km riding for 1575m elevation.
Day 2
A sign that I was truly shattered from the epically hard first day of riding can be shown in the fact that as soon as I my head hit the “pillow” I didn’t wake until the early sunrise at 0530. I packed up all my kit leaving no trace, and started the day on the Ridgeway.
An early start on this section of the route was truly a blessing. No one else on the track and with the morning mist rising from the hills, I was spoilt to be enjoying these beautiful views in complete silence, with only the noise of the gravel under my tyres as company.
The profile for the day was a lot more forgiving than day one. It was undulating for the first half with it ultimately slowly heading down. So for the morning riding before breakfast I enjoyed some coasting downhill on the Ridgeway with no other users to worry about, and enjoying the rolling Wiltshire countryside views the elevation of the Ridgeway offered.
Only downside to such an early start was that nowhere was open for breakfast, and with only cereal bars as fuel I needed to wait until I got to Goring on Thames before I would have some food and a coffee. This was 50km and longer than I would have liked but it did mean I got a good chunk of mileage done before breakfast.
Goring on Thames is a lovely town with a few good options to have something to eat. I opted for The Miller of Mansfield as the others seemed busy and as a hotel could guarantee I could get my Full English. It didn’t disappoint. I ate like a King and rested there for a full hour. Couldn’t recommend it enough should you pass through here for some food.
Leaving Goring I left the Ridgeway and started on the Thames Path. This was a very different path compared to everything I had been on until this point. Wooded with compact mud and with more walkers to navigate than my deserted morning section. As the track was narrowed it meant just keeping it slow and being patient at times.
Isn't wasn't long on the Thames Path and before I knew it I was in Reading. The meander through this city was largely well signposted and through quiet areas. Only exception was when it went through the restaurant area near the Oracle shopping centre, which seemed like an odd choice. After going through a quiet business area the route spat me out into the quiet countryside roads south of Reading. I really enjoyed this section from Reading to Risely where I stopped for lunch. It was mostly tarmac but on quiet roads where I was able to enjoy the riding. It was a nice change from all the off-road stuff, and a common theme of appreciation from me on this route is the ever changing type of riding you are getting to do. It keeps it interesting and the variety means you don't get bored.
Risely was my planned lunch stop, which at 84km meant it only left 40km for after. The only pub in the village, The Bull, was having a Jubilee party. A jazz band, an old Rolls Royce, and I presume the entire village had attended for the celebrations. A couple of cokes, some crisps and a hog roast was the choice here before heading off. Risely was lovely and if you can stop here you won’t be disappointed. It was such a friendly local area where strangers chatted with me and we swapped some stories. I would happily go back here and continue where these conversations left off.
The final section into Farnham was fairly uninspiring from a technical perspective as it utilised mostly gravel bridleways, but remarkable again that the route avoided any busy areas. This close to London generally has lots of busy roads so staying clear is a bonus. I’m not sure where all the riders were from the first day which I kept bumping in to, but today I had the trails to myself for the entire day it seemed. I popped into Farnham from a back road which had a cheeky final climb, and I was on the hunt for a decent dinner stop.
I had hoped to stop at a lovely pub which I went past but it was jam packed, and I was in the need of a sit down. I went to Zizi’s and had an unnecessarily large 3 course meal. It was perfect and just what I needed. But it did make me think – who, or why, is anyone eating this type of mega 3 course meal without having cycled for 120km? This is a completely side point but the pizza alone was 1700 calories, and I had some bruschetta and ice-cream added to this as well. But we digress.
After dinner I cycled with my eyes peeled for a camp spot. I cycled on the most crazy street for huge houses, Compton Way, where each house looked like a Royal Palace.
With rain due overnight my hope was that I will find something that will offer a little protection from the elements. The cycling Gods had answered my prayers on my wish for some shelter.
Not long after riding on the MTV Cribs street, I spotted a little A-frame style tee-pee that someone had made in some woods by the road.
With day 2 coming to a close it gave me a great opportunity to reflect on everything so far. The Ridgeway was a real highlight for me. I absolutely loved the section from this mornings camp spot to breakfast in Goring on Thames. My favourite perhaps so far. The quiet country lanes were much appreciated in the afternoon and a nice change from the style of riding I had been on up until now.
When I was settling into the bivy for that night, I couldn't recall without the aid of some photos what I had done the day before. Days on the road seem to stretch much further, with you getting more done in them compared to normal. I love that about cycling, especially touring.
Totals from today were 126km with 1,134m elevation. With less climbing, less technical riding and kinder surfaces under tyres it made today a lot easier than day 1. I was still shattered though!
A chilly start on the Ridgeway
Some hidden surprises under the grass
The makeshift shelter protecting me from the rain
Day 3
Battling the wet sand at the start of the day
Almost at the end now!
I am happy to report, and ultimately surprised, that the loosely fitted hut did the job in protecting me from the rain. There were a few splashes throughout the night that creeped through, but it wasn’t until I got out and started to sort my bike, did I realise what a great job it was doing. It must have protected me enough as I didn’t emerge until 0830! This is a longer lie in than I would get at home in a bed.
With myself and my belongings largely dry, I set off in damp drizzly conditions for the final day of riding back to Winchester.The morning riding took me through the sandy Frensham Common and Thursley National Nature Reserve. The morning was hard work. I’m not it’s because I was fatigued from the two days prior, or if a combination of the tough conditions and huge hill made it a tough slow slog.
By the time I got to the breakfast stop, which was a National Trust café by the entrance to the park, I had only travelled 20km in 2 hours 50 minutes. I did some filming in that time, but for the majority it was just tough going. The views of the park were ace, even with the grey cloud cover. But sand is obviously a slow surface to ride on, and the rocky uphill narrow tracks made it even tougher. I felt pretty deflated at the progress here, and it wasn’t until much later in the day, that I realised how much of a hill I had ridden up at the start of the day. The climbing was deceptive as I was under canopy for large parts of it compared to the previous days where you were exposed on a ridge, so I didn’t realise how much elevation I was gaining.
The contrast of the pre-breakfast section to the post-breakfast couldn’t be more different if it tried. Flying through Ludshott Common and Woolmer Forest was some of the best riding of the trip. No views so to speak of, but incredibly fun tracks. Compact mud in the woods that allowed for fast riding and fun cornering. If this was my local playground I would be very happy indeed.The route from Woolmer towards Queen Elizabeth Country Park was on quiet country roads and wooded bridle paths, which was all very pleasant.
Into Queen Elizabeth park I enjoyed a great descent before being spat out at the base of Butser Hill. I have walked up Butser Hill in the past so was aware of it’s vertical-ness, and with Si Richardson having to walk his bike up the hill on his GCN documentary, I didn’t hold much hope.By some stroke of luck in Queen Elizabeth Park I tagged along to a couple of guys who were also doing the route. Whilst I was faffing at the base of the hill doing some filming they were making their way up. I could see one walking up and one managing to cycle all the way. It was possible!
This was all the inspiration I needed. I paced myself going nice and slow, not to burn my matches too soon. With a lot of grimacing and grinding I managed to get all the way up! I could not believe it and I was so happy. I hadn’t had much fire power in the legs today so to make it up made me extremely happy.
The Butser Hill climb signals the start of the South Downs Way element of the route as well. I traversed along the top of the Way until my very late lunch spot at the Sustainability Centre. Even though I only had 35km left until the finish I knew that the South Downs was going to make me work for every kilometre there was left to go.
It was glorious sunshine which always helps, but the final afternoon with views over the South Coast of England was truly special. It rivalled the Ridgeway for beautiful views and even though I was tired, I loved every second of it. The track followed the South Downs all the way into Winchester. It was rocky and chalky and made you concentrate on your wheel placement.I was treated on one of the final tracks leading back to Winchester to a site that no words or photos can do justice. Sunset in the background, field full of colour, the spire of Winchester Cathedral sitting proud, and it was downhill!
A quick swing past St. Catherine’s Hill, a meander through the back streets of Winchester before I was reunited with the King Alfred statue I had departed from 3 days ago.It felt like an age ago when I was last here. I felt like I had seen so much, ridden so far and been on a true adventure. All of this excitement within such a small area in England.I was so elated to have come through unscathed but at the same time truly shattered from the 3 days of riding.
Final day stats were 101 km with 1,662m of climbing.
Final Thoughts
This ride was so much fun. It is a proper adventure with some challenging riding and amazing views.
You are never too far from a cafe or pub for some food, and if you wanted to do you could also arrange it to you stay in hotels or B&B's.
Cycling UK have pitched this that it is suitable for all, which I wouldn't particularly agree with. Some parts are challenging and people could find it quite tough and potentially not enjoyable. I'm not an overly skilful rider on gravel but at the same time not a complete novice, and there were some sections which were rather difficult. So something to bear in mind.
But it is well worth a few days of your time, and if the weather plays the game, you'll have an amazing time.
Full breakdown of stats are available on Strava:
Distance = 349 km
Total Climbing = 4,371 m
Average Speed = 16.5 km/h
Riding time = 21 hours
For the full video review of the King Alfred Way, check out the video below - which is also available on our YouTube Channel.
Kit List
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Night Rider and Catseyes Lights
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Clothing = DHB (Wiggle) and Aldi
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